Blueberry Crepe

well, I went with the Crepe from Colette Patterns and it actually didn't turn out too bad. I have altered every dart and seam by now and that alone has prevented me from purchasing more Colette patterns. See I don't mind doing muslins and getting some fit issues, but I just seem to struggle with this pattern and this is classed an easy one ... sigh

I originally thought of making the sash white, but I actually wanted to have a fun little dress that I can wear daily, not too fancy, and I thought that this would be better achieved in the sash blended in. Otherwise it would look too much like a bridesmaid dress.

It took a little longer then planned and I have come away for a distinct loathing of facings (last time I lined it), in fact I would prefer to never have to do facings again in my life, because they NEVER SEEM TO STAY where they are supposed to, despite interfacing and understitching ...

The fabric is a cotton poplin from Spotlight's Spots and Stripes range. I really like that range, it wears and washes well, the colours don't run (not sure why colours of the picture above came out wrong, but it's the only one I have for the back), it keeps both it crispness and size. I did quite a few things for the children from that range and they put it through the wringer and it came out on top.

I wonder how well this dress would work with a jersey fabric ... hmmm :-)

the final act - the finished Crepe Dress

I thought about writing the skirt section, but really, nothing interesting happened other then I took out a lot of fabric both on the sides and from the bottom - when I say a lot, I mean about 5 inches of each skirt seam - obviously not near the waist area, but further down - and about 8 inches in length.

I don't think it looks tarty though. Looksie ... I even found some heels to wear even though I have worn heels 3 times in the last 3 years, well 4 times now :-)

Another view from the side and back, please ignore the dying tomato plant, I have a new one.

Now, for the lining. One of the challenges was the opening to feed the tie through. I ended up sewing the seam allowances of the lining and the outer fabric together in order to create a stable non-fraying hole. It can be seen on the top on this picture. I also finished of the seam allowances of the skirt section by wrapping the lining around - a bit like the Hong Kong finish. I think Karen from Did You Make It wrote about it a while back ... obviously hers was neater.

As my final act in making this dress, I hand-stitched the bodice lining to the skirt section with a slip stitch. It's not totally neat, but who cares. I think it look great :-)

Now that it is finished I feel a little lost. I know I should get back to stash busting ...

Crepe Bodice or we're getting somewhere

You know why I don't particularly like muslins? Because by the time I got the fit right - or rightish, let's face it, I have little idea how things are 'supposed' to fit - anyway, by the time the fit is doable I have lost all enthusiasm for the projects. I have in fact got several skirt muslins ready to go, I have even paired them up with all the correct fabric and notions and yet they are sitting nicely in their little bag waiting patiently for the muse to return ... sigh.

I was determined to keep going with this project so here we are.  I cut the lining on the bias, so that the front piece has a bit of stretch like the gridlock fabric. It also stabilised the back piece where it crossed over. Originally the cross over is on the bias and now on the lining it runs with the grain, so hopefully it'll be less likely that it stretches out on that bit.

The original crepe dress is not lined, but due to the poly I really really really needed it lined. I was going to interface the whole neckline, but the bulk was a bit too much, so I just interfaced the tip of the V to ensure stability. Also I pinked the seams within the lining, because both fabrics frayed like mad ... is one supposed to finish seams that are within the lining?

I under-stitched the neckline and changed the darts of the lining into pleats to allow more movement - I think I might have read that on someone's blog, but I can't remember where.

I have made the ties out of the lining material (a ivory cotton sateen from Spotlight) and attached them slightly higher then the pattern asked for. It worked better on the muslin, so hey, who am I to question the muslin. Next up - the skirt :-)

the Crepe Dress Muslin

this is the step that I was most afraid of: THE FITTING

muslin #1 - the front

according the the size chart my bust was a size 4 and my waist a size 6, so I cut a 4 on top and then graded it up to a size 6 after the bust darts. It actually fitted quite well once I took in the side seams under the bust dart (to a size 2 ?!?). I wasn't all that impressed with the neckline, so it is now v-shaped instead.

The back was very baggy and had lots of fabric folds everywhere. I was feeling quite defeated, because no matter how much I took out it didn't really work. Gridlock is a substantial fabric, add to that the lining, I almost gave up until I looked at the pattern pieces.

There is a lot ease in the shoulder section and I seem to have a small back (judging by previous dress and shirt endeavours), so I copied the arm/ shoulder section from the front to the back. Below is a picture of the modified back laid atop the original back.

muslin #2 - the back

It now has the modified side seams, the changed back and I took another 1/4 inch out of the shoulder seams. This picture still shows a fold in the front under the girls, but after trying it with a variety of bras, I decided to stop messing with it.

I added the waist tie to get a better idea of the fit. I think the back is much better.

I wore it around the house for a few hours to get an idea whether I cut out too much ease, but it seemed fine. Now that I cut out the bodice and the lining though, I wonder whether I left enough ease to compensate for the fact the the gridlock fabric and lining will be much thicker then the ex-table cloth that I used a s a muslin ... sigh, well, we'll see.

the hunt is over - the Crepe Dress

I fell in love with Colette's Crepe Dress last year, because it seemed so neat with it being wrapped in the back. I bought the pattern and was super excited - wanted to start then and there. I found Gertie's sewalong and thought it was just great, someone going through all the steps on how to sew it.

And then I read ahead ... and Gertie said that she was on muslin #3 before it finally fitted ... and I kinda deflated when I read this. The thought of not just 1 or 2 but THREE muslins, each made by someone who clearly knows what she is doing, in my mind it spelled disaster. Obviously the dress must be very hard to fit and maybe I should do it when I know more about fitting and so it went into the pile of someday maybes.

Except, now I think it might make a good winter dress with the Gridlock fabric. So I pulled it out and thought I'll just try and see how it goes, because really, what is the worst that can happen. There are a few issues however, so I am not sure whether it'll actually work:

a, I need to have it fully lined (the poly problem) and the pattern calls for facings instead. Gertie underlined it completely and used facings, but that would be way too much bulk. So lining ...
b, the fabric requirement on the back says 4 1/5 yrds, I have 3 meters. However I am short, it's a winter dress worn with tights, so it can be kinda short too ...
c, my sewing mojo tend to vary a little when I am working on something that is hard ... hopefully it'll be finished before winter finishes in September :-)